The New York Times dining section handily beats The Washington Post‘s food section this week. First a piece from Paul Greenberg about using the whole fish that demonstrates beautifully that good food writing is first and foremost good writing. You’ll cringe; you’ll laugh; and maybe you’ll want to try his recipe for fish-head pasta sauce. Sam Sifton, too, crafts a true scene piece in his review of M. Wells in Queens:
It is brain panna cotta, essentially, and if it is on the menu it is an absolute must-order even if this sentence freaks you out.
Revel in how the mighty have fallen in Jeff Gordinier’s look at high-end products of yesteryear. The undercurrent of PR mocking is hilarious. And now that you are well humored and mentally sated, tuck in for two extremely interesting ribs recipes. And if ribs are your thing, read the piece.