I fell behind a bit (ever read The Lost Weekend by Charles Jackson?)–apologies. You’ve probably already read the wraps yourself and I probably should just get my ducks in a row for next week, but I can’t not mention the laugh-out-loud Sam Sifton pan of the latest all-show, no-substance scene spot in SoHo. Here’s a taste, but read it. It gets better.
It can be awful there, the kind of restaurant where groups of women who might be Real Housewives gather in blowouts and big rings to talk and use their mobile phones, as that guy from “Heroes” who used to be on “Felicity” makes his way out to the lobby and everyone orders a second sweet cocktail before the salad comes out.
And over at the Washington Post, there’s Joe Yonan on how to use up your celery before it turns to dust (very wet dust) at the bottom of your crisper. I know the transition from Sifton to Yonan, from funny to housewifey, might make it seem like I’m making fun, but I assure you I’m not. Unlike Yonan (he prefers bread to the stalk), I love LOVE celery. As both vehicle and accompaniment, as well as star of the plate.
I wasn’t wowed by any of his recipes, but Yonan has inspired me to consider the ingredient. Obviously, celery is key in many hot dishes, but this is a hot-weather challenge. Here goes. 1. Keep blue cheese dressing on hand for dipping/snacking. 2. Eat the celery in your Bloody Mary! 3. In fact, how about a chilled tomato and celery soup? With a little kick. 4. Sure you can braise celery, but I bet you can grill it, too. 5. Put sliced celery in every salad. 5. Including, but not limited to, a delish tuna pasta salad, which is perfect summer fare. I keep mine really simple: shell pasta, mayo, a little mustard, relish, canned tuna, a ton of celery, and parsley. 6. OR, the chicken salad variation, which is pretty much the same only no mustard, tuna, and relish, and instead chicken and grapes. 7. Okay, Yonan, I like the sound of the cambolzola and sardine toasts with celery salad. Good one.
One request though, lay off on the celery stand-up if possible. This is a vegetable that deserves a little respect. (Although I imagine Sifton’s celery roast would become an instant classic.)
[Joking about celery] gets a pretty big laugh, partly because I draw out the sentence as long as possible, adding clause after clause of hyperbole before I utter the name of the ingredient. In humor, timing is everything.