The New York Times dining section is really solid this week. Leading off is a media piece—my favorite—from Julia Moskin about her experience as a cookbook ghostwriter. The article feels really dish-y despite the fact that Moskin doesn’t identify any of the chefs in question, but based on the anecdotes, they will know who they are: the chef who wouldn’t credit her because his wife wouldn’t like it; the chef who promised to cook for her wedding and then reneged. Bobby Flay is the only chef quoted in the piece—he says he’s an author, but not a writer, whatever that means. That chefs might be rough with their ghostwriters should come as no surprise. What does is just how hands off they can be. One writer received only a list of flavor combinations.
Speaking of, there are also some tasty-sounding recipes this week: leek and potato soufflé and a coq au vin blanc. And Pete Wells reviews Acme, possibly the next wave of something from one of the founders of Noma, Copenhagen’s best restaurant in the world. Mad Refslund brings that ultra local, hyper nature-based approach to the New York landscape. I anticipate a series of foraging with Refslund in upstate New York articles. Thanks to Wells for this dish, which is making me hungry!
But to find real beauty in homeliness, order those blackened sunchokes. They might remind you of marshmallows that got too close to the campfire, or more appetizingly like fresh-dug truffles, but either way they are undeniably strange. And undeniably wonderful, enriched with butter, melted Gruyère and actual winter truffles.