Reading the Fish Wrap: Turkey Tomes

Thank you, Washington Post for at least giving readers a guide to buying fresh turkeys in the area this week. Not one mention of the most important food holiday of the year in the New York Times though it is only a month away now. The cooking magazines have been rolling in, a bird perched on each cover. Let the planning begin!

Instead, the Times opts to break the story about the most under-the-radar food sensation: the peanut butter and pickles sandwich. So under the radar, in fact, that pretty much only the article’s author, Dwight Garner, is into it. Oh, and once this pregnant lady ordered it. I say sensation, but what I mean is a flash mob of readers/eaters who encountered this piece and obligingly tried it. Once. It’s over now; forget it. (My own private food favorite is cottage cheese on mashed potatoes with lots of salt and pepper. Far better than the PB&P IMHO.)

Luckily former Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton is out on the campaign trail for the paper. Introducing our new ambassador to Thanksgiving: Sifton was in town earlier this week at Room & Board for a conversation with the Post’s Tim Carman about his new book, simply, Thanksgiving: How To Cook It Well. Although it might have been called How To Cook It Right, because Sifton is a traditionalist and a purist and this holiday is personal. And his handsome volume is the perfect appetizer for your blow-out meal planning. But please, oh please, and this is important: Do NOT serve appetizers on the big day. A huge no-no, says Sifton, unless you happen to have a couple of lovely oysters lying around on ice.

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