The buzz of the week has certainly gone to Pete Wells for his “Dear Guy Fieri, how does your restaurant blow? Let me count the ways” review in the New York Times. That said, while a pan is always worth a read, the only line that made me laugh out loud: “And when we hear the words Donkey Sauce, which part of the donkey are we supposed to think about?” The Onion’s piece about the owner of Bubba Gump Shrimp sending his sympathies is funny. But since few of us were going to be eating at Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar (I don’t even know who this Guy is) in Times Square, the article on Jacques Pepin’s steamed turkey is a more pressing read. The technique seems pretty straight-forward and absolutely worth trying. 30 minutes of steaming means the bird only roasts in the oven for two hours.
But the Washington Post wins it this week with Manuel Roig-Franzia’s history of Thanksgivings at the White House. This is exactly the type of piece the Post should be owning. Learn about Taft’s possums, Truman clear bouillon with celery, and Clinton’s black cherry jell-o mold. It seems the Bushes really were unpretentious, while the Reagans hosted a rigid affair in Santa Barbara. And the Obamas will be enjoying a kale salad from their garden dressed in a lemon vinaigrette. Of course they will!
And if you’re wondering what to drink this Thanksgiving…the Aperol Spritz? the Samson? Or how about the Gin Apple Cider? 1 part gin, 3 parts apple cider, 1 dash orange bitters. Whatever you decide, make a pitcher of it.