Reading the Fish Wrap: I Want Candy

The food sections this week range from meh (baked beans cover story) to ick (squirrel gravy with a description of butchering the rodent that will make your stomach turn), so steer clear. Or maybe just read Pete Wells’ review of the vegetarian joint Dirt Candy, and if you missed it last week, his review of the new outpost of M. Wells at MoMa PS1. I would have loved to try their short-lived diner of decadence in Long Island City. Escargot nestled in bone marrow? Foie gras grilled cheese? Truly a moment in time. And don’t forget the rant it inspired in GQ–a must read.

But these (holi)days, my food magazines have been piling up. Here’s the skinny: Martha Stewart Living’s got a spinach and fontina strata ideal for Christmas morning; Food & Wine has got five broccoli recipes which is perfect because the broccoli at the market looks amazing right now. I especially like this cheesy broccoli with garlic, coriander, cumin, chile powder, and oregano served with warm tortillas; Bon Appetit has editor Adam Rapoport’s family¬†recipe for latkes–he uses schmaltz, which I think I might just have to try for this year’s New Year’s feast. Also, in my quest for newer, brighter flavors, I want to make this oven-roasted flounder with bok choy, cilantro, and lime.

All the December issues have extensive gift advice. Nearly all of it can be filed under #kitchenclutter, but all the editors agree that candy is this year’s “it” gift. I guess there’s a lot of artisanal candy makers out there, so you can get souped up versions of old favorites. I think I could be won over by this trend with a few mint chip malt balls.

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