The pizza coverstory at the Washington Post food section this week is an example of style over substance. The behind-the-scenes narrative of the Tim Carman/Joe Yonan pizza cook-off, which Carman playfully suggests is rigged because Yonan is the boss, is light reading, but the ongoing joke leaves the reader thinking more about what Yonan’s year away from the Post did for his sense of humor than about pizza slinging. However, it did remind me of Pete Wells’ puzzling review of a Brooklyn pizzeria last week–strange in that it warranted a review and that Wells used an ill-concieved metaphor throughout (as in “the pizza version of the sparkly oven” and “the dessert is another of [the] tiled ovens”–editor please!) Anyway, this is the long process which brings me to this suggestion: On your next at-home pizza, try fennel, sausage, cheese, and red pepper flakes.
Perhaps less tasty, but there were two public-service-y pieces in the Post that are worth a read. Jane Black reports on a program to distribute leftover dining hall fare to local soup kitchens started by students at the University of Maryland. The program, called Food Recovery Network, has expanded to twelve campuses in just two years. And over in the Metro section, Darryl Fears writes about how area restaurants and diners need to do their part to help eradicate the snakehead fish, an invasive species in the Chesapeake Bay, by making it a must-eat. Says Fears, only half a dozen restaurants in the D.C. area currently serve them. Oddly enough, I happened to eat at one of them last night: Little Serow. Served with lime and rice powder, it was a mild dish, and we found the fish firm, yet giving, kind of like eel. I can’t say it was a must-repeat-eat for me, but with a sea of no-no fish out there, it’s nice to have a yes-yes.