- Drinks (84)
- Easy Indulgences (43)
- Gifts (35)
- Media (207)
- Product Reviews (8)
- Recipes (185)
- Restaurant Reviews (114)
By far my favorite food genre, soups are perfect for this time of year. One day chilly, the next sweaty, I find a lovely pureed vegetable soup that can go hot or cold to be genius. Just saute a chopped onion in a little butter and olive oil and then add, all roughly chopped, 2 bunches of asparagus, 1 head of broccoli, a couple of potatoes, and 8 cups of chicken or vegetable stock, or a combo of stock and water. Bring it to a boil and then simmer 35 minutes. Puree with a hand-held immersion blender and heat through, adding a healthy dose of hot sauce. This is a great mid-week meal served with cheeses and bread.
This is going to sound like a pretty obvious statement, but I just tried a recipe from Thomas Keller’s ad hoc at home and it was awesome. I had a taste for some Indian flavors, so initially I thought of dahl, but then I came across Keller’s recipe for lentil and sweet potato soup. I had a ton of aging sweet potatoes in my larder, so it didn’t take much convincing.
The New York Times dining section is really solid this week. Leading off is a media piece—my favorite—from Julia Moskin about her experience as a cookbook ghostwriter. The article feels really dish-y despite the fact that Moskin doesn’t identify any of the chefs in question, but based on the anecdotes, they will know who they are: the chef who wouldn’t credit her because his wife wouldn’t like it; the chef who promised to cook for her wedding and then reneged. Bobby Flay is the only chef quoted in the piece—he says he’s an author, but not a writer, whatever that means. That chefs might be rough with their ghostwriters should come as no surprise. What does is just how hands off they can be. One writer received only a list of flavor combinations.
I think I would have been intimidated by any cookbook by Ferran Adria of the experimental mecca (lately shuttered) elBulli in Spain. And now after reading through much of his new book, The Family Meal, I wonder if there exists a more accessible one out there. I’m also left feeling that Adria really is a teacher first–it makes perfect sense that he’s replacing his restaurant with a cooking school.
I’ve been asked in the past for cookbook recommendations. I typically dodge the question, because it’s a tough one. And you can see just how difficult when you read Sam Sifton’s round-up of the latest cookbooks in Sunday’s New York Times Book Review. 13 books, 12 of the reviews tepid or, at least, recommended with reservations (like, “if you can overlook the filler and the steep price tag…”). Hank Shaw’s Hunt, Gather, Cook, spun off from his blog, Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, is the only one Sifton greenlights, but it’s also not a straight cookbook.
So when the new editor at The New York Times Magazine, Hugo Lindgren, writes that “Mark Bittman is handling the revamped food section,” does that mean he will be assigning and editing or writing each week? Readers want to know! Please let it be the former. Either way the fact that Bittman blames food for his heft, his high cholesterol and high blood pressure, and his sleep apnea and bad knees can’t help but shine through.