Category: Fish Wrap

Reading the Fish Wrap: I Want Candy

The food sections this week range from meh (baked beans cover story) to ick (squirrel gravy with a description of butchering the rodent that will make your stomach turn), so steer clear. Or maybe just read Pete Wells’ review of the vegetarian joint Dirt Candy, and if you missed it last week, his review of the new outpost of M. Wells at MoMa PS1. I would have loved to try their short-lived diner of decadence in Long Island City. Escargot nestled in bone marrow? Foie gras grilled cheese? Truly a moment in time. And don’t forget the rant it inspired in GQ–a must read.

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The Seedy Side of the Holidays

What a success our Thanksgiving was this year! There were no misses on the table: A beautifully golden turkey–how is it that chefs on Top Chef can’t get that right?–sausage and apple stuffing; mashed potatoes and gravy; broccoli salad; roasted delicata squash with pomegranate seeds; roasted sunchokes–a conversation starter and a first for nearly everyone at our table–and pies, with salty caramel taking the, er, cake. The wine for the most part was a sparkling white made for Whole Foods that is a convincing stand-in for champagne called De Chanceny Cremant de Loire. All in all, a meal to be proud of.

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Reading the Fish Wrap: All the Presidents’ Birds

The buzz of the week has certainly gone to Pete Wells for his “Dear Guy Fieri, how does your restaurant blow? Let me count the ways” review in the New York Times. That said, while a pan is always worth a read, the only line that made me laugh out loud: “And when we hear the words Donkey Sauce, which part of the donkey are we supposed to think about?” The Onion’s piece about the owner of Bubba Gump Shrimp sending his sympathies is funny. But since few of us were going to be eating at Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar (I don’t even know who this Guy is) in Times Square, the article on Jacques Pepin’s steamed turkey is a more pressing read. The technique seems pretty straight-forward and absolutely worth trying. 30 minutes of steaming means the bird only roasts in the oven for two hours.

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Reading the Fish Wrap: See, Reviewing Isn’t So Subjective

Turn your gaze away from the Sandy tribute in the New York Times dining section and read instead the Washington Post’s review of the new Logan Circle gastropub Drafting Table. Tom Sietsema’s take is very similar to mine. His title …

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Drink the Results With Mario Batali

From an otherwise lame feature from the New York Times Magazine, the One Page Magazine, there is some advice for the day’s drinking from Mario Batali, the expert in all things consumed and alcoholic: For election night, I have a …

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Reading the Fish Wrap: Vote for…Carrots!

Let the vegetable scramble begin. Thanksgiving has very few open slots–in my household they exist only in sides and desserts. The last couple of years brussels sprouts have been the “it” vegetable side. This year, the big carrot lobby won’t …

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Cheers to Many Many More!

East Coast readers of the New York Times can only see this storm as the perfect opportunity to actually read the whole paper. An extra day! But in case you dawdled as much as ever I’ll draw your attention to …

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Reading the Fish Wrap: Turkey Tomes

Thank you, Washington Post for at least giving readers a guide to buying fresh turkeys in the area this week. Not one mention of the most important food holiday of the year in the New York Times though it is only a month away now. The cooking magazines have been rolling in, a bird perched on each cover. Let the planning begin!

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When the Tastemakers Have Questionable Taste

Readers of this blog know that I have mixed feelings about chef Jose Andres. I’ve found most of the restaurants in his D.C. empire to be unremarkable and have had actual bad meals at Jaleo and America Eats. But I get that he’s playful and creative, and my first meal at minibar was truly exciting. But the second one slid back to the ho-hum that I’ve come to associate with his projects.

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Reading the Fish Wrap: Animal Farmers

Learn more about your supper’s personality this week with fascinating pieces on tasty animals in the New York Times and Washington Post. Jeff Gordinier writes about the California woman who farms most of the fresh snails in this country. Apparently …

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